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Palazzo Manfredi & Gran Melia Villa Agrippina, Amazing Roman Hotels

Myrna Katz Frommerand Harvey Frommer

It was a few years back on a rainy night that we wended our way to Palazzo Manfredi and dinner at the Aroma Restaurant. A lot of hotel stays and superb dining experiences later, we still had a memory of that time and also of our meeting with the elegant Bruno Papeleo, General Manager.


Bruno Papaleo, The Top of the Hilenl General Manager

Now we were back in Rome, guests at the Palazzo Manfredi, a Relais Chateaux five star property. In the 17th century it became a villa of the Evangelisti family. It passed on to the Venerable Confraternita dell Ss Trinita dei Pelleegrini e dei Convalescenti.


Totally rebuilt in the 18th century, the building then became a hunting lodge.In 2002, Count Goffredo Manfredi, a famous Italian businessman and construction magnate purchased the villa. All thanks to him for the creation of this 16-room gem of a hotel.


Chef Giuseppe Di Iorio has been Aroma’s master head chef since the sublime restaurant opened in 2010. It is located on a picturesque outdoor terrace that offers at all times an unparalleled and almost hypnotic view of the Coliseum.


Perfecting a menu that merges his mastery of traditional Italian cooking with his zeal for fresh ingredients and new ideas, the inventive chef Di Iorio was awarded his first

Michelin star in 2015.  He is a man with zest for good food and a light touch it making it out of this world extraordinary.


His cuisine is definitely “not just pasta,” but if it is pasta you crave there is that too, delicious and inventive and features classic Italian dishes. The 40-seat Aroma Restaurant is settled in nicely on the Penthouse of the elegant Palazzo.


We had a bit more time to spend this time around with G.M. Bruno Papaleo, who if anything is more on top of his game than ever. His insights into the hotel’s marvelous chef and the environment around Palazzo Manfredi, were succinct and on target:

The cuisine in Aroma,” Papeleo explained, “is Mediterranean with small touches of the regions of and around Rome.  The setting is very historic, and the area is a nice, quiet place, like a small village where everyone knows everyone else. From some of the hotel rooms, you can see the changing rooms of the gladiators. There is a touristic crowd around the Coliseum. But the tourism doesn’t extend into the Domus which is where we are.”

Chef Giuseppe Di Iorio

The Ladies in Red

Pool at Gran Melia Villa Agrippina

Grounds at  Gran Melia Villa Agrippina


Palazzo Manfredi is a glorious gem - 16 individually created rooms in an elegant five star hotel. All different from each other. Views are everywhere – the Coliseum, the Colle Oppio (Emperor Nero’s Gardens), and the streets of the local neighborhood. Rome – at its best.  


G.M. Papaleo’s terrific touch is everywhere from the sublime Palma toiletries, to the friendly, attentive, capable staff. It is all of one piece – service with a smile and among the best we have had in years. 


If you must choose one hotel to stay at in Rome, choose Palazzo Manfredi. It is KING OF THE HILL, TOP OF THE LINE.


Palazzo Manfredi via Labicana 125 00184 Roma

+06 77591380:




The Gran Melia Villa Agrippina is like being in Rome, but also like being in the country.  It is actually situated in the heart of the great city but apart from it on the quiet Janiculum Hill. Incredibly, one has serenity and luxury and everything else including being within walking distance of the Vatican, Piazza Navona, Castel Sant'Angelo and other fabled sites easy distances away. The Melia property is a sprawling and wondrous villa replete with beautiful gardens, many birds, an outdoor and very appealing pool, 

Once upon a time this over-the-top luxe hotel was a former convent that was constructed on the site of the suburban home of Emperor Nero's mother. Nowadays, it is an 87-room high over-the-top property with Balinese Beds in all rooms.


A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, Gran Melia Villa Agrippina opened in the spring of 2012. During the massive excavation and construction period relics and other items of archeological interest turned up. Today these are displayed throughout the hotel.


Other unusual features include the sleek lobby which houses a bust of Agrippina and a library of art books. Numerous dining options exist including the gourmet and two star Michelin Vivavoce restaurant, the Liquid Garden, a pool lounge bar in an orange grove. Wherever you chose to dine, the food is fine.


 High speed Wi-Fi, Nespresso coffee maker, king size bed and a full set of Clarins bathroom amenities add to the total package. There is also the convenience of a shuttle service for free downtown transport. 


Overall, the feeling of the hotel is light and airy, thanks to the large windows, glass paneling in all areas. There are also accented elegant modern Murano chandeliers and contemporary art pieces.


A special feature, never seen before by our well-seasoned traveler writing eyes, is what we call the “Ladies in Red.” Decked out with red dresses, scarves, shoes, part concierges, tour directors, confidantes, attractive, attentive, attuned, these women are a very plus part of the remarkable scene.  A BIG WINNER.             

Via Del Gianicolo 3, Rome, 00165, Italy. 0039 692


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About the Authors:  Myrna Katz Frommer and Harvey Frommer are a wife and husband team who successfully bridge the worlds of popular culture and traditional scholarship. Co-authors of the critically acclaimed interactive oral histories It Happened in the Catskills, It Happened in Brooklyn, Growing Up Jewish in America, It Happened on Broadway, It Happened in Manhattan, It Happened in Miami. They teach what they practice as professors at Dartmouth College.

They are also travel writers who specialize in luxury properties and fine dining as well as cultural history and Jewish history and heritage in the United States, Europe, and the Caribbean. More about these authors.

You can contact the Frommers at: 

Email: myrna.frommer@Dartmouth.EDU
Email: harvey.frommer@Dartmouth.EDU

This Article is Copyright © 1995 - 2017 by Harvey and Myrna Frommer.  All rights reserved worldwide.

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