| What makes for a three-star Michelin
experience? Since the award, reportedly, comes from the kitchen, the
quality and preparation of the food would have to be exemplary. But
the service would be superb as well, the setting inviting. And yet,
there would be something more – some ineffable quality that gives
truth to the adage “The whole is more than the sum of its parts.”
On a rainy night in October, our taxi stopped on a
quiet street around the corner from the Arc de Triomphe. Across the
way, a double grated door bearing the modest declaration: “Restaurant
Guy Savoy” had been slid apart to reveal glass walls framing a rather
inconspicuous entrance. One could easily pass by never and notice it.
A man holding an enormous umbrella rushed out to
meet us. Quickly he ushered us into a comfortable lounge where a small
welcoming party including a chef in toque blanc (only later did we
realize it was Guy Savoy himself!) greeted us with great smiles and
cries of “Bon soir, bon soir.” We were divested of our coats, swept
into the second of what turned out to be four dining rooms, and
comfortably seated at its far end. There we paused for a moment to
catch our breath and take in the surroundings.
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The space bespoke contemporary,
understated luxury. Walls were alternately paneled in a cedar-like
wood, evocative of the Four Seasons in New York, or painted a cool
beige and accented with vivid abstract paintings and exotic
sculptures. Soft light came from recessed fixtures, gray carpeting
ran across a planked wooden floor. Every table was filled; the
crowd was lively, the mood jovial. Our
contemplation was cut short by the arrival of the maitre d’
proffering glasses of champagne. With warmth, aplomb, and no small
amount of patience for an American couple with limited fluency in
French, he proceeded to guide us through the menu. |
“The foie gras?” he began. Yes, for one. Not the
other.
“Then oysters for Monsieur? Followed by scallops,
pan fried on a bed of parsley purée -- it is the beginning of the
season.”
“Ah, you’ve made a friend.”
A few more questions, and he had a handle on what we
were about, our likes, our dislikes, and what it would take to bring
us to a state of Guy Savoy bliss.
The parade of dishes began with a small serving of
heavenly, creamy carrot soup flavored with anise that preceded the
first of several foie gras preparations, this one hidden within a
delicate pastry of filo dough. And for Monsieur, a frosty glass tray
bearing plump oysters resting in their shells on a bed of oyster juice
blended with a trace of cream, topped with a slither of sorrel and
tiny bits of lemon.
Champagne glasses were whisked away and replaced by
a carafe of refreshing, lemony Alsatian Riesling to accompany a second
miniature portion of soup: autumnal pumpkin bisque enlivened by the
zing of white truffles (also just in season).
Another version of the delectable foie gras now
arrived, a raw slice over wild mushrooms with black truffles and
sliced leeks sitting on a little strainer. No sooner was it consumed,
when a waiter -- coming as if from out of nowhere -- lifted the
strainer with a flourish, and voila! another foie gras presentation,
gelled this time beneath beef bouillon. Simultaneously, the promised
scallops from the waters off Brittany were served. Seared, on a bed of
sautéed parsley purée and flavored with parsley juice, they seemed the
epitome of delicacies until the next course: tuna, so rare it was
nearly raw, accompanied by chopped chives, micro-greens, ginger, and
-- unexpectedly but delightfully -- raisins.
The delectable foie gras |
And scallops on parsley purée |
Like a perfectly choreographed dance, the Guy Savoy
dinner proceeds with precision and not a single missed step. Although
unhurried, never, for a moment, does time lag. Each new course is
preceded by a change of flatware and glasses accomplished with such
alacrity and fluidity, it is barely noticed. Wine and water glasses
remain magically filled; no sooner is a crisp wheat roll or wedge of
fragrant country bread finished, then another variety appears on a
never empty bread dish.
The artichoke is a favorite vegetable of the chef’s
and the basis for his signature artichoke soup. Cooked in truffle
juice with an abundance of black truffles and grated cheese and
accompanied by a flaky brioche with mushrooms and spread with truffled
butter, it is incredibly delicious and creamy. Equally incredibly, it
is cream-less -- the rich texture comes from the artichoke heart.
Although served all year round, what ideal comfort food this flavorful
dish proved to be on a damp and chilly autumn night.
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A signature Guy Savoy dish: artichoke soup |
Wine at Guy Savoy can be ordered by
the glass. To accompany our main courses, we had a lovely
two-year-old Beaujolais from Morgon Côte du Py that was brimming
with the flavors of fruit. It was a good match with the red mullet
that came with chives, fried potatoes, sautéed eggplants and baby
spinach, and the sautéed sweetbreads that were crisp on the
outside but moist and delicate within and admirably paired with
turnips and baby leeks, foie gras and truffles. |
To select from the ample cheese tray, we sought the
advice of our helpful server who suggested the pungent, creamy
epoisses from Burgundy and the excellent munster with apricot
marmalade. Mesmerized by the gorgeous, glittery dessert trolley, we
tasted caramelized grapes that looked like miniature jelly apples,
tiny madeleines, and grapefruit segments coated in orange jelly. But
we also succumbed to an unforgettable chocolate cake that came with
the deepest, darkest chocolate ice cream.
At the conclusion of this exceptional dinner, we
reflected on the ineffable quality that had made the experience so
sublime. Beyond the quality and expert preparations of the food, the
élan that marked the service, and the restrained elegance of the
surroundings, there was a celebratory atmosphere that was reflected
throughout, among diners and staff alike.
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Guy Savoy (left) and his kitchen team |
“You can feel Guy Savoy through all
the aspects,” says the lovely Carine Guillemot who has been the
chef’s assistant for the past four years. “He wants you to be
comfortable like you are in your own home. The place was
re-decorated a few years ago to make it more intimate.”
“It used to be one main room and now we have four
small rooms,” said Berlin-born Hubert Schwermer, one of the four
maitre d’s. “But the rooms are not really separated. Mirrors and
openings give it a spacious feeling. It’s a flexible arrangement;
some of the walls can be moved to make for different sized rooms. |
“The décor was done by this famous architect,” he
added. “He thought through every element, the level of the lights, the
comfortable chairs and the spacing. The Limoges china was designed by
an artist. Each plate is different, designed to complement the food.”
Has the food changed along with the décor, we
wondered. “The trend is to make dishes lighter and healthier,” Hubert
said. “Only one or two dishes have a little bit of cream. But the
quality remains at the same high level. Produce is delivered daily by
market gardeners, suppliers are farmers or wine growers for
generations, breeders, small scale fishermen from Brittany.”
Carine Guillemot
assistant to Guy
Savoy |
Maitre d’ Hubert
Schwermer |
“Guy is here early every morning before the rest,”
Carine interjected. “He must see himself what is happening in the
kitchen, the dining room. He shares his expertise and experience with
all, and as a result, there is a lot of affection for him on the part
of the staff and pride in being part of the team.”
There are four other Guy Savoy properties in Paris:
three bistros and one in between a bistro and gastronomic restaurant.
A fifth will be opening in August 2005. Only this venture is to be on
our side of the Atlantic in the new tower of Las Vegas’ Caesar’s
Palace. According to Carine, it will be identical to the one where we
had just enjoyed so splendid a repast: the Restaurant Guy Savoy behind
an inconspicuous entrance, on a street around the corner from the Arc
de Triomphe. A good excuse to head west and re-experience the
pleasures of dining at Guy Savoy where, according to the chef, “A meal
is a celebration of life.”
Restaurant Guy
Savoy
18 Rue Troyon 75107 Paris
Phone: 33 (0) 1 43 80 40 61
Email:
reserv@guysavoy.com
Web: http://www.guysavoy.com
photographs by Harvey Frommer |
